MAY 16, 2022 – KETCHIKAN

Cruise ships are so annoying, they arrive at 6AM and are so noisy. The captain gets on the loudspeaker which blasts to the entire waterfront “Welcome to Ketchikan”. Because it’s a relatively narrow channel the tugs have to go out and guide the cruise ships into their berths, and the tugs are moored right next to where we are tied up, so there’s that too. Next up the seaplanes fire up to take passengers on their excursions, and the really noisy hovercraft/people movers wind up their engines to take people somewhere, not sure where. All mild complaining aside, it’s also exciting and interesting to be down near all the action. Today we have had breaks of sun/no rain, followed by impressive squalls that pelted us with stuff that looks to be sleet but I think it’s just really heavy rain. It will surround and envelop us in its fury, obscuring all visibility, only to move along a while later and restore our view. Today we have more errands to accomplish for parts and supplies. Shannon and the boys left early to go shopping for parts so they can fix stuff, then Shannon, John and I went to town around 10:30 to browse the shops. My first stop was the bookstore while Shannon went to the yarn store next door. I found more local/Alaska books to read and Shan loaded up on yarn for another project. Then we dared to venture onto Creek Street (4 cruise ships in town so it was swarming with tourists) which is the former row of homes along the creek housing the ladies of the night (prostitution was legal until 1954) including the famous “Dolly’s House” owned by Dolly Arthur, the most famous of the ladies – now all the homes are gift shops. I talked Shannon into touring Dolly’s House for $10 each and somehow bribed her to pay for me too, even though we knew full well it was a complete tourist trap, but I was curious and Shan humored me. We were through in less than 10 minutes and not much more enlightened, although I’ve since read that at the time Dolly wouldn’t quit each day until she made $75 – and only charged $3 per session. Yikes. She also ran an illegal liquor business through a trap door under the house that opened to the creek below, accessible at high tide. After that cerebral experience, we parted ways – Shan went back to the boat to meet David, and John and I went to lunch at a really delicious fish bar called Alaska Fish House. It was right down by the cruise ships so we were somewhat skeptical, but it turned out to be excellent. Seating was family style on long picnic tables, and there we met a guy eating by himself and struck up a conversation. He and his buddy were on a 38’ boat out of Tacoma doing basically the same trip we are doing. They are both from Kansas City and his friend has only owned a boat for 2 years. The fact that they were both Kansas City natives and biting off a trip of this magnitude was impressive! He had all kinds of questions about when to travel, weather, places to anchor, etc. Was very pleasant company. After lunch we spent a good hour in a beautiful art gallery called Arctic Treasures where the owner gave us 100% of his attention and proceeded to educate us on all the artists in his gallery. He told us about a place called St. Lawrence Island which is right at the US/Russian border which is where much of the walrus tusks originate from, buried in the silt. Some of which are fossilized with age. Anyway I wish I’d have recorded our visit so I could recall everything he told us. The art he had in his gallery was truly spectacular. For dinner tonight we drove up to the Cape Fox Lodge which is up on the hill overlooking downtown Ketchikan. While there, a violent squall rolled through – complete with hail - shaking the restaurant or at least it felt that way. We watched as an eagle fall out of a tree right outside our window! I’m sure he was fine but have never seen a bird blown off its perch. Shannon and I exchanged pictures today so here are a few from her phone as well as today’s pictures.

These are actual flyers from Dolly's House back in the era

One of the many hermit crabs we pulled up in our shrimp pots

One of the working tugs that is moored right next to us in Ketchikan. They go out to greet each cruise ship that arrives, and also to escort them out of Ketchikan