ELFIN
COVE AT THE DOCK
Tuesday,
June 23rd
The
boys got up early this morning and ran out to the fishing grounds which is about an hour
down the coast to where the guide boats go. It is still flat calm in the Gulf
of Alaska so they were able to easily get out there. Connie and I spent the
morning on our respective vessels having a leisurely morning which I spent
cooking up a storm in the galley and I think she spent it doing financial stuff
for all the many things she manages. I decided to make a new recipe for Zuppa
Toscana which is sausage, kale, potato (or gnocchi) soup. I couldn’t find
gnocchi so looked up on the internet to see what I could substitute and Google recommended
tortellini so that’s what I used. The soup was great for a few hours, but by
the next day the tortellini had completely taken over all the liquids and
absorbed everything, and I am left with a pile of mushy pasta that is headed
overboard later today (June 25). I made a giant bowl of green salad that we can
feed off for a few days, and some crab louis dressing from scratch so we can
have crab louis salads for lunch today, consuming the last of my crab catch. Also
mixed up a giant bowl of slurry for my prawn bait. Smelly stuff. The boys came
back with a sad report of no fish to speak of, except for lots of pinks (humpies), which are not great eating fish unless consumed within a few hours. They
could be used for smoking and canning but we skip keeping them and will wait
for the Kings and Silvers.
The weather cleared
up somewhat so Connie and I decided to take the kayaks out for a nice long
paddle in the afternoon and it was just so beautiful. We paddled out in front
of the docks and around a little islet, completely exposed to the opening of
the Gulf which was still flat calm. Eagles were perched on rocks and in
trees and there was even a Sea Lion diving about near us. We made sure he knew
we were there, wouldn’t want to take a tumble from him surfacing near us and
then I’d probably jump out of my skin and tip over! We paddled back into the
inner harbor of Elfin Cove which is lined with homes and fishing lodges, some homes
dilapidated and abandoned, others spiffy and new. Just as we were turning to
head back to the boats, we got some light rain to urge us to paddle faster. I
was hoping for some hot chocolate when we got back, as I was chilled to the bone,
but settled for herbal tea as it seems I failed to stock hot chocolate. As the
rain got more serious, we played some afternoon cards (“Whiskey Poker”) with
the Abells and then decided we should go support the local economy and had
dinner up at the Coho Bar and Grill, burgers and beers. I was able to strike up
a conversation with a couple of locals sitting up at the bar and picked their
brains about life in Elfin Cove and why they chose this remote existence which
was fascinating. The answer I most get when I talk to locals living in small
villages is that they like the scenery, the peace and quiet, the fishing, and the
fact there are very few people. It has to be a rough existence over the
winters.
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Brady Glacier- view from the boat looking north
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Loved this photo of Brady Glacier in the distance, the boys returning from fishing and a seaplane taking off
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| And we have loft! |
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| Boys returning from fishing, they got soaked this morning |
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| Miss Connie on our paddle adventure |
This guy/gal didn't seem to be bothered by us
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| The landscape is so rugged |
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| The compound of one of the oldest (longest term) residents in Hoonah |
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| The fishing boat shack in Elfin Cove |
This is a map of where the boys went fishing today
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